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Balliceaux: A Review Print E-mail

February 17, 2010
Denise Simmons, Corporate Chef

I had the opportunity to dine in one of Richmond’s many great restaurants last week.  Balliceaux is a lot like many of the other top notch restaurants in Richmond-sparse on décor, but still managing to be hip and happenin’, with some interesting food offerings. 

This particular restaurant does feature some local items, but I would have liked to have seen more, as well as a menu change more often.  They’ve been open for a few months and are still running the same menu.  In my…perhaps not-so-humble…opinion, they should be changing up a good part of their menu every week. 

I had the special for dinner, Braised Boneless Beef Short Ribs with Truffle Scented Mashed Potatoes, House Cured Bacon & Roasted Baby Carrots and Brussels Sprouts.  I hate to admit that it’s tough for me to resist short ribs.  As a chef, I feel like I should branch out and try new things….but I just can’t seem to stop myself from comparing short ribs from different chefs all over the country.  And I must say, the ribs at Balliceaux were, without reservation, the best I’ve had….and that includes the ones I’ve cooked myself (oh…how difficult it is for the fragile chef’s ego to say that someone else’s food is better…).  Usually not a fan of truffles, the mashed potatoes had just the right amount to make them creamy and luscious, rather than overwhelming the rest of the dish.  The baby carrots and Brussels sprouts were perfectly cooked and a wonderful match to the other flavors on the plate.  And the small bits of house cured bacon were the icing on the cake, so to speak.

Throughout my career I have worked with chefs who are either what I would term ‘minimalists’, or those who seem to feel the more ingredients, procedures and equipment used, the better the chef.  I tend to be a minimalist myself, and the meal at Balliceaux proved to me that simple ingredients, perfectly prepared and paired, make for the most fulfilling dining experience.  Particularly when paired with a spectacular Red Zinfandel!

You can find out more about Balliceaux on their website.

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